Firenze - Nerbone / Mercato Centrale

Nerbone  -

Inside the Mercato Centrale

The Mercato Centrale is a beautiful market in the center of the city. It is not far from the duomo. If you like food markets, it is a good place to take a quick stroll through.   There is a very popular stand inside the market called Nerbone.  It is most famous for its Lampredotto sandwich.  Lampredotto is similar to tripe, but it is more special.  I will spare you the full definition.  We went to the market right when arrived after the overnight flight, so I wimped out (with Sloan’s urging to do so) and order a bollito di manzo instead.  This is a boiled beef sandwich.  Either sandwich can be order, “bagnato” or bathed with broth and with salsa verde.  It was very, very good.  Once you are in the market, you will see the stand.  It will most likely be busy.  The link below is from Florence, I am not sure if it is from Nerbone.

Youtube Video of Lampredotto Panino

Firenze - Home of the Negroni

Cocktail Reccomendation – the Negroni!  

The negroni was invented in Florence by count negroni who asked his barman to replace the club soda in his Americano with gin.  Smart man that count, who needs a cocktail with a mixer, when you can make one that is all booze!  The negroni is made with equal parts gin, sweet vermouth and campari.  It is a drink that is meant to be had as an aperitif before a meal.  A hotel bar, or a place like Gili is where you should order one.   They will usually serve some olives and maybe potato chips on the side.  This is a great drink to order all over Italy, but everyone should have at least one where it was invented.  

Firenze - Coco Lezzone

Coco Lezzone –

Via Parioncino, 26r
50123 Firenze, Italia
055 287 178

We went for lunch, and it was almost empty except for us, one table of businessmen and one table of old men.  The room is full of long communal tables, so in busier times of the year it might be a very different atmosphere.  

We ate four very memorable dishes.  The first was an unbelievable ribolitta - a very dense tuscan bean stew with escarole and bread.  This will not be available in the Summer, this is the definition of a tuscan winter dish.  Should you find yourself there in the winter, this is the way to go.  

Sloan had the tuscan tomato and bread soup: papa al pomodoro.  This should be available year round, and should be even better in the summer, but I am not sure.

My entrée was an arista di maiale, or roasted pork loin.  This was a perfectly cooked loin of pork, roasted with a stuffing of herbs in the center.  This was absolutely perfect.  

However, the dish that really stole the show was a contorno di fagioli  -  a side dish of beans.  These were tuscan white beans served with olive oil.  These were so amazingly good, I can taste them right now.  They were incredibly simple, but absolutely perfect.  

This is the kind of place you can drink house wine.  Be sure to order anything with beans, and whatever roasted meat options they are serving.  The service was extremely friendly, and the bill was very inexpensive.  Once again, nothing fancy, but the Florentine trattoria of my dreams.  A good choice for lunch or dinner.

Firenze - Sostanza

Sostanza – January 2009

Via della Porcellana, 25
50123 Firenze, Italia
055 212691

This was the only restaurant that we saw during the entire week in January that was full.  It is extremely popular with locals and tourists, so definitely reserve.  I just read that the restaurant has been there since 1869. All seating is communal at 1 of 4 tables, so this can be a little intimidating, but hopefully you will be with nice people.  I believe they do 2 seatings for dinner,  I would recommend being in the 2^nd seating, or you will probably be with fellow Americans.  Either way, it is awesome.  

The atmosphere is very convivial.  There is one owner and 2 helpers who serve the entire dining room. They are true professionals.  The owner takes everyone’s order.  This as well is a little intimidating at first, but don’t be afraid, they are one of a kind.  They are famous for two things here, I would recommend getting both.  1.  Pollo al burro – chicken cutlets sauteed with butter. I did not get to try this, but it looked incredible.  2. Bistecca alla Fiorentina – This is the famous Florentine steak made from the local chianina beef.  This is pretty much the only beef in Europe that can compare, and possibly exceed the quality of the beef in the US.  The Bistecca is always served for 2, it is always the same weight, I believe 2KG, so it is a lot of meat.  If you want it rare order it “al sangue.”  I recommend 2 meat eating people to order both to share, even if it is enough food for 3.   The picture below is not from Sostanza, but it is a great picture of chianina beef.

For the appetizers look and see what other people are eating.  I don’t remember getting menus, so there might not be any.  You can order the entrees, and then ask the owner to choose the starters.   They also have salumi.   Sloan did have another very good dish for her entrée, I believe it was called Sformato.  It was an egg based dish similar to a frittata with artichokes and a soft cheese similar to ricotta.  They actually brought her in the kitchen to show her how to make it, and made a big show if not letting me come with her.  This is really a special place.

I think Sostanza is dinner only, and remember to make the reservations.  This is another place to drink house wine.  This was more expensive.  Bistecca Fiorentina should be very expensive, I think it was E65 or so.  It is the type of dish you want to pay a lot of money for.  Either order it somewhere known for it, or don’t bother.  You won’t want to order it at a tourist place.